By: Azzan Shy
URBINO, Italy – It’s 6 p.m. and the once quiet Sugar Café begins to swell with occupants. It’s a diverse assortment of people.
Some wear weary expressions from a long day of hard work, others are relaxed and rested from a day of leisure. Some come in groups, others alone. Once seated some order a cold glass of wine to act against the harsh heat of the Italian summer.
Soon after drinks are served each customer is presented with a plate covered in an assortment of small treats – sandwiches, breaded potatoes, and mini pizza slices to name a few.
Within minutes the once hushed and hollow cafe becomes boisterous. The soft background music is now drowned out with conversation, laughter, and the clinking of toasting wine glasses.
Welcome to the world of aperitivo.
“Aperitivo begins around 6, so you can come home relax and plan dinner the next day or thenext weekend around an environment or people that relax you,” said Giovanni Garbugli, owner of the café along with his brother Giacomo. “That’s what aperitivo means for Italians.”
Aperitivo, a cherished tradition deeply rooted in Italian culture, has a rich history thatdates back centuries. Its exact origins are unknown, but many believe it stems from an ancient Roman tradition.
“Aperitivo emerged as a pre-dinner ritual designed to stimulate the appetite and enhance the dining experience,” according to the article “The History of the Aperitivo Tradition and How to enjoy it Like an Italian.”
The word “aperitivo” stems from the Latin verb “aperire” meaning “to open” symbolizing the opening of the palate and anticipation of a meal.
Aperitivo as we know it today developed in northern Italy in the 1800s. In the late 19th century, particularly in cities like Turin and Milan, aperitivo transformed into a popular pre-dinner social gathering. Bars and cafes began to offer an array of drinks, often accompanied by small bites or appetizers, enticing patrons to unwind, socialize, and whet their appetites before heading to dinner.
This tradition is widely practiced across Italy to this day, including at the many cafes and bars of this historic Renaissance city such Sugar Café, a favorite destination for locals and visitors alike since 2003.
Giovanni has a lifetime of experience in the hospitality industry. His journey began on the Prince Cruise liner where he worked for 10 years. Giovanni said his passion for delivering exceptional hospitality propelled him to venture into creating his own culinary haven with his brother.
“I did not forget what was very important to me,” he said. “To always be at the disposal of guests.”
Now married with two children, Giovanni has channeled his experience in the hospitality industry with his love for Italian traditions into crafting aperitivo experiences for the people of Urbino.
Their journey however has not been without its ups and downs.
“We have gone through the pandemic period, and we have gone through two big Italian socio-economic crises, which is not something to forget,” Giovanni said. “It has been very hard for us but finally, we made it and we can see we are doing the right job.”
Adding their own unique twist to the aperitivo experience, Sugar Cafe offers two signature spritz creations for aperitivo time.
The first combines soda water, the sparkling wine Prosecco, and a touch of Riviera, a sparkling, low-alcohol mixer resulting in a tantalizing blend of refreshing flavors.
The second masterpiece contains no alcohol. It incorporates soda water infused with sambuca tree leaves and a delicate touch of sugary water, creating a harmonious balance to captivate the taste buds.
When it comes to pairing wines with aperitivo snacks, Giovanni shares his expert advice. In most cases he emphasizes the importance of opting for white wine when indulging in fish-based appetizers. The delicate flavors of the fish are complemented perfectly by the crispness of a well-chosen white wine, he said.
“We recommend white wine or a white bubble wine like Mettodo Classico which is a special wine produced in the northern part of Italy and in France. Never serve fish with red wine,” Giovanni says.
However, Giovanni is quick to point out the significance of enjoying aperitivo with food. “You should never have two glasses of wine without food,” he explains.
And locals understand the importance of aperitivo time to their lifestyle.
“Aperitivo means being all together with your friends and relaxing or it could be a good way to have a quick dinner,” said Aurora, a customer who chose to commemorate her high school graduation with an aperitivo experience at Sugar Café – and preferred not to have her last name revealed.
She said she regularly participates in aperitivo gatherings every weekend to unwind before the upcoming week.
“It’s not about getting drunk,” she pointed out. “You enjoy the wine and enjoy the night.”
And aperitivo offers tourists a real Italian experience.
Lauren Planer, from Glen Rose, Texas, enjoying aperitivo while on a study abroad trip, found herself captivated by the uniqueness of Urbino.
“I have never seen a place like Urbino in the United States and certainly not in Texas. Urbino is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen,” Lauren said.
Having been in Urbino for a few weeks now Lauren has been able to try different cafes and bars to see where she prefers her aperitivo. For Lauren, her aperitivo of choice can be found at the Bosom bar located within the walls of Urbino.
“I had a Pink Sunset from Bosom (bar) that I liked the best so far,” Planer said. “This is my first time experiencing aperitivo culture and I couldn’t help but notice how every location serves alcohol and every menu have a section titled aperitivo. It’s very different from the U.S,”
Back at Sugar Café it is well past 7pm and the peak time of aperitivo has come and gone. As the sun sets tables begin to empty as people move on to the next phase of their evening.
Tomorrow will bring the end of another workday and Sugar Café will once again welcome visitors seeking respite and indulgence in the tradition of aperitivo.